Thursday, 30 May 2013
Day 30 Rabanal del Camino - El Acebo
Today was very different. We climbed through hills covered with white broom, white heather and pink heather. We were even in the moving clouds at times. Soon we were at Cruz de Ferro. We could see it from a distance and I started to cry. It surprised us how emotional we felt. I laid my rock up at the top of the pile then Bernard climbed up and laid his along with a family rock. We hugged and shed a few tears. Family and friends are so precious. The downhill portion of today was very rough and rocky. We decided to stop at El Acebo which is about half way down and give our feet and legs a rest. We are at a Parochial Albergue where it is all by donation and you have to help prepare dinner. Bernard and I peeled the potatoes and I tried to help cut them but I wasn´t doing it right! There is a group making salad right now and the Beatles are playing on the CD player! Buen Camino!
Waiting
Bernard waiting under the olive tree for the Albergue in El Acebo to open. Notice the size of the trunk on that olive tree!
The views today.
The views today were magnificent when the clouds cleared long enough to see them. The pink hue on the mountains is heather - lots and lots of heather! It was so beautiful.
Cruz de Ferro
Here is your Dad leaving his rock and our family rock on the top of the pile. It was a very emotional moment for us.
Cruz de Ferro
Here is a picture of the Cruz de Ferro - the Iron Cross at 1505 meters, it is a 4 foot iron cross on top of the pillar. The pile of rocks keeps getting bigger and bigger and it is filled with messages written on some of the rocks.
Wednesday, 29 May 2013
Day 29 Astorga - Rabanal del Camino
The church bells were chiming 7 o´clock this morning as we walked the empty streets of Astorga. The wind was blowing colder and stronger than yesterday so we put on an extra layer of clothes. An hour up the road we stopped for cafe con leche and French toast where the bar owner added some ¨perfume¨ to the toast (tasted like Amaretto). We also stopped further on at the Cowboy Bar in El Ganso. It looked a little incongruous - there were western antiques and pictures and a couple of large tables with benches, then there was a framed rug on the wall depicting Muslims at prayer. We arrived around noon at the Municipal Albergue and there are lots of beds available- not bunks!! We are at an elevation of 1150 meters and it is quite cool. Tomorrow we climb to 1504 meters to Cruz de Ferro (the Iron Cross) where we will leave a stone brought from home as a symbol of love and blessing - yes, we still have your stone! Buen Camino!
Fwd:
Day 28 Villares de Orbigo - Astorga
We have definitely left the meseta behind and are into the rolling hills of the mountains beyond. Although the sun shone all the way to Astorga today we are still wearing our toques and gloves as the wind is blowing cold and strong. Astorga is a very old city with Roman ruins and walls. Napoleon didn´t succeed here - there is a monument in one of the city plazas dedicated to the successful defense of the city in 1809 - 1810 against Napoleon. We cooked our dinner tonight with a young man from Venezuela who works as a cook on an oil rig down there. He gave us a portion of what he made and we shared some olives we bought at the market today. Astorga is also known for its chocolate - just don´t buy the orange chocolate - it really is orange! Should have stuck with Lindt! Buen Camino!
Day 27 Villadangos del Paramo - Villares de Orbigo
Not a long walk today but that is okay. The terrain is changing now - a few more ups and downs. We are staying in a private Albergue and a very nice one. The dormitory is fully booked so he gives us a private room - no extra charge because we did not ask for it. People travel differently on the Camino. There are those who do not want to stay in Albergues so they reserve at hotels or Casa rurals, and there are those who are okay with Albergues but want to walk at their own pace so they reserve at private albergues. There are also those who would not be able to walk the Camino if they had to carry a backpack so they reserve at a private Albergue and send their backpack by taxi to their next stop. This also woks if you develop severe blister problems or other problems. We have been staying at Municipal albergues because you cannot reserve at these and you cannot have your backpack sent ahead to one of these. We don´t reserve because we don´t know how far we are going to be able to walk!! If we try to stay at a private Albergue we try and arrive early enough to be assured of a bed. Also, at a private Albergue a communal meal is usually offered which is really nice. At a Municipal Albergue you usually have to prepare your own dinner and breakfast or go out to a bar or cafe. Everyone´s Camino is their own! That´s your Camino 101 lesson for today. Buen Camino!
Tuesday, 28 May 2013
Day 27 Villadangos del Paramo - Villares de Orbigo
Not a long walk today but that is OK. The terrain is changing now - a few more ups and downs. We are staying in a private Albergue and a very nice one. The dormitory is fully booked so he gives us a private room - no extra charge because we didn´t ask for it! People travel differently on the Camino. There are those who do not want to stay in Albergues so they reserve at hotels or Casa Rurals and there are those who are okay with Albergues but want to walk at their own pace so they reserve at private Albergues. There are also those who would not be able to walk the Camino if they had to carry a backpack so they reserve at a private Albergue and send their backpack by taxi or special transporters to their next stop. This also works if you develop severe blister problems or other problems. We have been staying at Municipal Albergues because you cannot reserve at these and you cannot have your backpack sent ahead to a Municipal Albergue. If we try to stay at a Private Albergue we try and arrive early enough to be assured of a bed. Also, at a Private Albergue a communal meal is usually offered prepared by the owners. This is a great chance to meet different people and it is usually a good meal. At a Municipal Albergue you usually have to prepare your own dinner and breakfast or go out to a bar or cafe. Everyone´s Camino is their own! That´s your Camino 101 lesson for today. Buen Camino!
Monday, 27 May 2013
Day 26 Leon to Villadangos del Paramo
Now we leave Leon. It takes a while to get out of the city and it is always interesting looking for the yellow arrows that mark our way. This morning the arrows are quite visible, and if you miss them, there is usually another pilgrim ahead of you to follow. We are rested after two days of not having to walk with our backpacks and the terrain is still quite flat. Lots of fields, some corn and some wheat. The time goes quickly and soon we are at our destination for today. The Municipal Albergue has a large dorm with beds and no bunks, and it has cubicles with two 3 tiered bunks. We each take a bottom bunk in our cubicle and no one comes to claim the upper bunks so we have a "semi private" room (no door). Later, because it rained and some pilgrims had their clothes outside on the line, the hospitalero started the fire so they could dry their clothes. The heat felt so good. We had a great sleep. Buen Camino!
Day 24 and Day 25
People everywhere and a beautiful clean city! Our Hostal Albany does not disappoint us, there is even a bathtub which I use immediately. A bath has never felt this good. The cathedral is right on the plaza and is beautiful. The light inside from all the stained glass windows is incredible. We walk all over the old city! The streets are narrow and lead us everywhere. Lunch is¨"sopa" (soup), I have gazpacho which is so good then to another cafe for cafe con leche and churros, yum! Rest then wine at the cafe on the plaza with some Aussies from Perth and another Canadian. At 8:30 (everything is so late) we head to a Tapas Bar. The bar was loud and crowded and there was a bullfight on TV. It felt like something out of a Rick Steeves travel program. The Tapas were excellent. When we left the crowd just absorbed our space as if we hadn´t been there. Next day we leave the Hostal and head for the Albergue Santa Maria de Carbajal Convent. Because this Albergue is run by the nuns the men and women are separated into different dormitories. This is weird to us because we came from a queen size bed that we shared the night before for the first time since starting our pilgrimage and now we can´t even sleep in the same room! Not only that, the bed policewoman assigns the bunks and don´t argue! No, I can´t have a bottom bunk! Our mochillas (backpacks) are all lined up against the wall but we must spread out our sleeping bags to show the bunk is occupied. Once we are settled in we wander around some more and find the old walls that surround the city. You can see the Moorish influence in their design. Tonight the Pilgrim Meal is quite good for a change, pasta and fish course for me and lentil soup and pork for Bernard. Dessert was an orange - maybe we will get a real dessert soon! Buen Camino!
Day 23 El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas
We left sooo early this morning 6:15 and got here at 11:30 (18.8 kms) but the Albergue doesn´t open until 12:30. It is finally sunny and hot and we have a beautiful courtyard with pots of pansies and geraniums hanging on the wallls. The pilgrims soon fill the courtyard with laundry, the colours mixing with the colours of the flowers. One of the hospitaleros here remembers us from our cold wet miserable stay in Redecilla del Camino back on Day 9. He walked here and is now volunteering for 2 weeks. Amazing! There is another amazing hospitalera here by the name of Laura who has found us a place to stay in Leon at a Hostal. It is like a small hotel. It is right on the plaza across from the Cathedral, perfect! I can´t believe we will be in Leon tomorrow! I want to remember and hold all of these sights and sounds but they are going by so fast. Walking should slow it all down but it gives you so much more to see and hear. Buen Camino!
Sunday, 26 May 2013
Day 22 Calzada del Coto - El Burgo Ranero
On the road at 7:00 a.m. It is foggy and overcast. We are all alone on the path for the first time. It is so unusual but we know the pilgrims starting from Sahagún will soon catch up to us but until then we enjoy the solitude. The fog clears and the sun is warm and welcome. When we arrive we are instructed on how to line up our "mochillas". By the time the Albergue opens at 1:30 there is quite a line of "mochillas", but only room for 28 - it fills very quickly. There are a few familiar faces. One couple who taxied to Sahagún from Terradillos de los Templarios because she was sick and needed a day of rest in better facilities, taxied back to Terradillos to pick up their pilgrimage without missing a step. They actually began their pilgrimage by walking from their home in West London to Portsmouth, took the ferry to San Malo and walked and camped (and froze) to St. Jean Pied de Port where they joined the Camino Frances. So many interested stories! Buen Camino!
Fwd:
Day 21 Terradillos de los Templarios to Calzada del Coto
Today we walked through a couple of beautiful villages. One even had a hobbit hillside. It looked like a whole neighbourhood with several chemneys and TV antennas sticking out of the rolling sod roof. Then we were in Sahagún where we had planned to stay but decided to move on. Tonight finds us in a village called Calzada del Coto. It is cold in the Albergue so we head for the bar. We met a local man by the name of Vidal who tells us about his "hobby" and we think he says he grows mushrooms. Bernard and he had a great time trying to make each other understood. Later we were sitting in the sun and he came over with a book about wild mushrooms. He explains to us and two other Spanish pilgrims that he gathers wild mushrooms. Then he came back with a basket of mushrooms he had gathered that morning. He insists we all follow him to his house where he seats us in the dining room, puts on some Spanish music and pours us all a glass of wine. He disappears into the kitchen and returns 10 minutes later with a frying pan of onions, mushrooms and chorizo with egg and a hunk of bread which he proceeds to slice. He gives us each a piece and a fork and urges us to help ourselves to the mushrooms. It is delicious! The Spaniards are totally comfortable with the whole situation. Once we are done he brings out another bottle of wine and half a Wheel of cheese. He also shows us pictures of some of the different mushrooms he has gathered. I think it is more than just a hobby for him. You would have loved these mushrooms, George! Buen Camino!
Wednesday, 22 May 2013
Day 20 Calzadilla de la Cueza to Terradillos de los Templarios
It was a short walk today to give my left foot a rest as it is a bit sore, but no blisters! For those who started their pilgrimage in St. Jean Pied de Port, France, this town is their halfway point to Santiago! Since we only started in Pamplona our halfway point is still about two days away. Since about Day 13 we have been meeting a couple from Winnipeg almost every afternoon or evening either on the trail or at the same Albergues. Their plan was to celebrate their 30th wedding anniversary by doing the Camino in 30 days. Well they had to slow down a little and we are so glad they did. It has been a real treat to get to know them a little and Bernard and H. have had a great time trading stories. But today we had to say goodbye as they are taking the bus to Sarria so they can walk the last 115 kms and get their Compostela before they have to head home to Winnipeg! We are really going to miss them. Buen Camino N. and H.
Day 19 Carrion de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza
Walked on the old Roman road today which is still intact after 2000 years. It was long, straight and flat like the countryside. Bernard met a French couple and wished them Bon Chemin! There were huge green fields of barley and huge brown fields of stones! We walked for 17 kms before seeing this village so this is where we are staying! There is also a hostel in this tiny town with a bar where almost everyone is spending a wet afternoon waiting for dinner at seven p.m. Finally we are all called into a huge dining room where the waitress gives us a choice of two different dishes for plato #1 soup or salad, and a choice of three more for plato #2 fish, rabbit or lasagna. Dessert, ice cream, cake or yogurt and of course all the wine or water you wanted. For so many people it was all served very quickly and efficiently. It was still very damp after dinner and so to bed. Buen Camino!
Day 18 Poblacion de Campos to Carrion de los Condes
We took the suggested route in the guide but then decided to follow the alternate route, a much better path even if it was beside the road. The walk was busy with pilgrims but everyone is friendly and says hola or buen camino. I had to stop along the path today to look after a blister on my big toe and several people offered assistance and made sure we had what we needed. It is very cold today. Apparently it snowed in Madrid yesterday! We are staying in Albergue Santa Clara Convent. These 13th century buildings are very hard to heat! The showers were good though. We went to the eight o'clock Saturday evening mass that also offered a pilgrims blessing. This was in a 12th Century church, St. Mary of the Way, Santa Maria del Camino. After mass the priest gave us each an individual blessing while the choir of about 5 people sang. When we were done one of the pilgrims sang Dona Nobis Pacem and the echoes gave me goosebumps. The acoustics in these old churches are wonderful. It is late and cold so good night. Buen Camino!
Day 17 Itero de la Vega to Poblacion de Campos
We slept in! It was a quarter after seven when we got up. We had paid for our breakfast the night before so the young people who run the Albergue La Mochila set out a thermos of coffee, a liter of milk, two saucers with margarine and jam and a basket with slices of baguette with our name in it. We had to microwave our coffee and toast our baguette, except the toaster did not work. Eight kms. down the road at Bodilla del Camino we stopped for breakfast again. We walked a great path today beside an irrigation canal. I could imagine Cis and Jack paddling their canoe there. We walked through Fromista and on to Poblacion de Campos. We are staying at another Municipal Hostel. We had to register at the hotel down the street and they also offer a Pilgrims Dinner. Tonight dinner was excellent, a tomato soup with some chorizo and pasta, then two slices of pork roast with small potatoes and roasted red pepper. Dessert has homemade custard with cinnamon. Wine and water and a coffee liquor to finish. Very nice. So far at most of these hostels there have been more women than men, but tonight there are more men than women. I think it will definitely be an ear plug night. Buen Camino!
Day 16 Hontanas to Itero de la Vega
Left Hontanas with lots of blue sky showing. Very promising. We were warned that when you cross the meseta be prepared for heat, bring lots of water and use lots of sunscreen as there is very little shade. Well it is lush and green and very cold. We are wearing our toques with our hoods pulled over to keep out the wind and we are wearing our gloves and moving very quickly to stay warm. We climbed a huge hill today as we were leaving Castrojeriz, 12% grade for 1050 meters. We are very glad we trained on Teapot Hill! Then less than a kilometer later we went down 350 meters at 18% grade. Again today about 4 kms. from our destination the track was muddy so we had to walk on a very narrow part to stay out of the wet sticky gumbo. We are in Itero de la Vega tonight. it is the first town we have stopped in that looks a little depressed. We have met a few different ladies on the trail in the last three days, one from the UK and two from Holland. We have been passing each other on the trail or meeting in the same Albergue in the evening. Tonight they are staying at a different Albergue that they call Las Vegas where they insist that is where it is happening! We checked it out and everyone is so tired that they are watching Spanish TV with the locals. The most popular TV for us pilgrims is the weather forecast and it is not looking good! Oh well!
Buen Camino!
Wednesday, 15 May 2013
Day 15 - Rabe de las Calzados - Hontanas
The wind came up very loud in the wee hours last night. We are supposed to be on the meseta (high plains) in the morning. By the time we finish breakfast and get all our gear on the wind has stopped but it is raining hard! Once we get going it is not so bad. The rain has softened the track so it is easier on our feet. We stopped in Hornillos del Camino for our cafe con leche and a change of socks for me on my right foot plus a plastic bag (my right side got all of the rain). Past SanBol and smack into the mud! The mud lasted into Hontanas. Our legs were very tired carrying that heavy gumbo the last 4kms. Here at the Albergue Santa Brigada there is a special courtyard with a hose and drain for washing the mud off of your boots, sticks and rain pants. We had lunch, showered (best shower so far) and rested. We will have a pilgrim´s dinner tonight - salad, chicken paella, dessert (vanilla custard with cinnamon) and wine of course. Almost forgot, as you come into Hontanas there is a tiny hermitage of Santa Brigada with an amazing tiny domed rock ceiling. It is finished inside and painted blue with a mural of flowers around it. It was so unexpected that we almost missed it! We are both feeling good, getting lots of rest and enjoying the outdoors. Our hands are very brown from the sun. This is a beautiful way to see a beautiful country. Today Joanne and Brian are celebrating their 20th Anniversary! Buen Camino!
Day 14 Burgos - Rabe de las Calzados
We are having another short day today to let the hordes (and there are hordes) of pilgrims get ahead of us. We made our first reservation for tonight at a private albergue so we can relax and enjoy the walk without worrying about having a bed for the night. The walk out of Burgos this morning was beautiful. We walked under an arch that was so old you could imagine El Cid (who lived in Burgos) riding under the arch on his horse with his army right into the plaza in front of the cathedral - you can almost hear the horses! There are several places where you get this feeling! Here in Rabe de las Calzados the 13th Century church dominates the village. The village looks quite prosperous with some new construction built around the narrow medieval streets. We even saw two shepherds herding sheep through the back streets to their new pasture enclosed with old stone walls. We also heard some Spanish roosters - they sound just like yours Joanne! We were having a siesta today when the bells all started ringing - and they rang for almost five minutes, really loud! Apparently there is going to be some kind of fiesta here tomorrow. I guess we will miss that one! Buen Camino!
Day 13 Ages - Burgos
We climbed a logn way yp again today over a rough and rocky sheep track with lots of sheep dung too! At the top there was a wonderful view of the valley and green fields and distant mountains. There was also a huge wooden cross at the top. We walked for a while with woman from Quebec who now lives in Brussels. She was so interesting that we picked up our pace just to talk with her. Before we knew it we were just 4 kms from our destination! Tonight we are in the historical city of Burgos at the Municipal Albergue - 150 beds on 6 floors - they even have an elevator. We are on the 3rd floor (which is actually the 4th floor since what we call the first floor is floor zero here). There are six floor to ceiling lockers full of boots (one for each floor so you can find your boots in the morning!). There is a lot to see in Burgos if you want to be a tourist. You can stroll the plazas - and there are a lot of them - and just people watch while you sip yhour wine or beer and enjoy the sunshine. The cathedral is amazing with all of the ornate filigree and the spires are so tall!! It is beautiful! They had a pilgrims´mass tonight and at the end the priest blessed all of the pilgrims and prayed we have a safe journey and a safe return to our families. Dear family and friends, know that you are prayed for in every church, chapel and cathedral we visit. Buen Camino!
Sunday, 12 May 2013
One more picture
The primroses on our walk today from Villafranca to Ages.
Hope I´m not boring everyone!
Day 12 Villafranca - Ages
What a steep climb out of town! but we manage fine. My blister doen´t hurt so it must be on the mend. The way is a rough, rocky track but it is easy to be distracted by the wildflowers - pink heather the height of our wild yellow broom, pale yellow primroses, violets, small pale yellow daffodils and wild strawberries in bloom. We walk through pine forests and oak trees not yet showing signs of life and we can glimpse more wind turbines through the trees. The wind is cool but the sun shines through. We are about 1,000 to 1,100 meters above sea level. The next village is called San Juan de Ortega (St. John of the Nettles). It looks very clean and orderly - some of the houses even look new. It is Sunday so everything is quiet except the cafe where we have our cafe con leche and a muffin. San Juan is known for all of the good works he did to assist the medieval pilgrims. On to Ages and the Municipal Auberge - 36 beds in one large dormitory - 2 showers and 2 toilets each for the men and the women and a washer and a dryer - bonus! 3€ to wash and 2€ to dry, about 6 or 7 dollars. We arrived at 12:30 and by about 2:00 it is almost full! We do laundry, shower and nap (we do a lot of that!). Everyone in the dorm is having a siesta, as though they are resting up for the big day tomorrow - the city of Burgos is on the horizon. While we were having our pizza dinner in the cafe two young boys from Spain came in. They belong to an association that spends their Sunday biking a section of the Camino. Tomorrow there is no school so they are spending an extra day on "the Way". Back to our dorm and hopefully it will be a quiet night! A Happy Mother´s Day to all! Buen Camino!
Saturday, 11 May 2013
Day 11 - Belorado - Villafranca Montes de Oca
The walk today is uphill again and my blister hurts so we don´t travel too far - 11.9 Km. Tomorrow will be better. Franca in the name of this village relates to the French people who settled here centuries ago, and Monte de Oca refers to the hills of the geese. We are in a B & B with our own private room and a kitchen to make our lunch and dinner. For dinner we have pasta and a sauce with carrots, onions and a tomato (it is so nice to have some vegetables) and some "tomato frito" (tomato sauce) and some cheese on the side and a fried egg. We need our protein. It is so good! We met a young couple from Melbourne who kept us company while we were cooking. They have travelled everywhere. When they go home they are hoping to start a family. The wine is good but it is time for bed. Buen Camino!
Day 10 - Belorado
Nice small town, the bus ride took about 15 minutes and it would have taken us 3 hours to walk! The first hotel was full so down the street to the Hotel Belorado which backs right onto the Camino. We wander around a bit, visit a Panaderia where the students come in and pick up their ready made "queso y jambon bocadillo" and leave a Euro on the counter and they are gone. The bread is like a small baguette, crisp and crusty on the outside and soft on the inside. There is no butter or mayo and the cheese and ham are sliced very thin and only one layer of each. Not quite the quantity of filling we are used to, but nevertheless it satisfies. Dinner is at 8:00 p.m. and we are the only people in a dining room that seats 70! We order the soup and a pork main dish, we really don´t know what to expect. The soup is a very full bowl and good, and the main course is two pork chops for each of us with french fries - but not too many. We watch a little Spanish TV then to bed! Buen Camino!
Day 9 Cirueña - Redecilla del Camino
Pedro made us breakfast - a bowl of cafe con leche and slices of baguette toasted and served with his homemade blackberry and fig jam - then he sat himself down at the head of the table and watched us eat. Our friend M. says it is like being under the watchful gaze of Mother Superior. Really puts a damper on any attempt at conversation!! It is a misty overcast morning. We walk near fields now, no more vineyards. Soon we can see the cathedral spires of Santo Domingo de la Calzada rising out of the mist. The cathedral is not open so we cannot visit the chickens inside (you will have to look up that story). We stop in Grañon to buy some disinfectant for my blister and it is starting to rain. The Auberge in Redecilla opens at 1:00 p.m. so we decide to stay here. There is a bar where we can buy a sandwich (bocodilla) but there is no store in town, so it will be a sandwich and wine for dinner. The Auberge fills up but no one speaks English. Bernard is forced to use his French! We are going to take a bus to Belorado tomorrow and have a day off to heal my blister, so to find out when and where to take the bus Bernard had to ask the Frenchman who had to ask the German who had to ask the Spaniard - then back again!! I hope nothing got lost in the translation! Buen Camino!
Thursday, 9 May 2013
Wednesday, 8 May 2013
Day 8 Najera to Cirueña 15.1 Kms
Almost everyone is up early - some are still snoring. Almost 90
people are trying to be quiet while they organize their packs - the
rustle of sleeping bags being stuffed into carry bags, bathroom doors
being slammed quietly, the smells of breakfast being prepared, the
search for walking sticks in that pile in the garbage can, trying to
spy your boots - which looked very distinctive when you put them on
the shelf yesterday. Water bottles are filled, feet are slathered
with vaseline, packs are cinched and we are off. Follow the yellow
arrows out of town (up the hill)! It is all up hill this morning but
not too steep. Breakfast in Azofra - the usual. Climb, climb, climb,
when we look back there is a long line of pilgrims. Today will be a
short day - I have a small blister that I want to look after right
away and we have been wallking for eight days! We are in the Auberge
Virgen de Guadalupe. The owner, Pedro Marie, is making dinner and
breakfast in the morning.
The church bell rings ten minutes before the hour,
The cafe - Bar Jacobeo - offers free internet,
Pedro will sell you an unlabelled bottle of wine for 3 Euros (but
don´t spill any)!
Buen Camino!
.
people are trying to be quiet while they organize their packs - the
rustle of sleeping bags being stuffed into carry bags, bathroom doors
being slammed quietly, the smells of breakfast being prepared, the
search for walking sticks in that pile in the garbage can, trying to
spy your boots - which looked very distinctive when you put them on
the shelf yesterday. Water bottles are filled, feet are slathered
with vaseline, packs are cinched and we are off. Follow the yellow
arrows out of town (up the hill)! It is all up hill this morning but
not too steep. Breakfast in Azofra - the usual. Climb, climb, climb,
when we look back there is a long line of pilgrims. Today will be a
short day - I have a small blister that I want to look after right
away and we have been wallking for eight days! We are in the Auberge
Virgen de Guadalupe. The owner, Pedro Marie, is making dinner and
breakfast in the morning.
The church bell rings ten minutes before the hour,
The cafe - Bar Jacobeo - offers free internet,
Pedro will sell you an unlabelled bottle of wine for 3 Euros (but
don´t spill any)!
Buen Camino!
.
Day 7 Navarette-Najera 17.4 kms.
On the road early - the road is good but uphill to Ventosa where there
is a cafe - you guessed it - at the top of the hill. We have our
cafe con leche and potato tortilla
for our desayuno. Through the vineyards to Najera. We end up at the
Municipal Auberge - 90 beds in one room! It seems like a sea of
humanity in one room but everyone is considerate and it all works out.
I am trying to find a quiet place to write but llife is going on all
around me. An older local man is singing along with a young pilgrim
playing his guitar. There are a lot of older people from the nearby
"home" hanging out with the young pilgrims. It is a very comfortable
atmosphere.
Buen Camino.
is a cafe - you guessed it - at the top of the hill. We have our
cafe con leche and potato tortilla
for our desayuno. Through the vineyards to Najera. We end up at the
Municipal Auberge - 90 beds in one room! It seems like a sea of
humanity in one room but everyone is considerate and it all works out.
I am trying to find a quiet place to write but llife is going on all
around me. An older local man is singing along with a young pilgrim
playing his guitar. There are a lot of older people from the nearby
"home" hanging out with the young pilgrims. It is a very comfortable
atmosphere.
Buen Camino.
Tuesday, 7 May 2013
Day 6 Viana to Navarette
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: bernie tinevez <kofthew@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, May 6, 2013 at 6:25 PM
Subject:
To: bernie tinevez <kofthew@gmail.com>
From: bernie tinevez <kofthew@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, May 6, 2013 at 6:25 PM
Subject:
To: bernie tinevez <kofthew@gmail.com>
Monday, 6 May 2013
Happy Hour in Viana
From: bernie tinevez <kofthew@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 16:34:43 +0200
Subject:
To: bernie tinevez <kofthew@gmail.com>
Day 5 Sansol to Viana
as far as Viana today a distance of 10.1 kms. There are lots of
pilgrims on the road and I believe they are headed for Logrono - a
further walk than we plan to do. Lots of flowers and sunshine today.
Hopefully you can see the picture - Spain is absolutely beautiful!!
We have to be careful not to get sunburned. Today is Mother´s Day in
Spain - Madre de Dia - and when we arrive in the main plaza of Viana
there are vendors selling all kinds of plants and flowers and outside
cafe tables are full of families laughing and hugging and kissing.
Such a joy to see. The Church of Santa Maria is the center of the
plaza and we have arrived just on time for the 11:00 a.m. mass. The
priest sang hymns with clapping and everyone clapped along. Off to
the hostel - Andres Munoz Municipal Auberge. 54 beds in 4 rooms, 3
triple bunks in our room and all the others too I think. The first
arrivals get the bottom bunks. We settled in then went walking around
town. It wasn´t too long before we spied some familiar faces and had
a long "happy hour" then dinner for a pilgrim´s meal. For me, soup
then Hake (mild white fish), for Bernard, a bowl of white beans which
were delicious then a roast chicken leg with a few chips. Some
dessert too, but not much. Back to our rooms to catch up on our
journaling and get organized for the morning as we are hoping to do a
longer walk tomorrow. A nice quiet sleep - no need for earplugs.
Buen Camino!
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: bernie tinevez <kofthew@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 16:30:58 +0200
Subject:
To: bernie tinevez <kofthew@gmail.com>
Sunday, 5 May 2013
Day 4 Villamayor de Montjardin - Sansol
We left very early this morning as we wanted to get to our destination and be assured of a bed for the night. We actually used our headlights to find the markers to follow for the Camino. Before long the sun is up and we are joined by other pilgrims. We had our cafe con leche in the plaza in Los Arcos. Suddenly a trumpet sounds and echoes off of the old stone buildings, so clear and sweet, and just as suddenly it stops - such a sense of loss! Our walk today is easier and more level. Sansol is a lovely small village just 1 km. from Torres de Rio which is the destination for most of the pilgrims today. We select our bunks and decide that "yes" our hostess can cook dinner for us! It is a small Auberge - 14 beds in two rooms (but only one bathroom for all of us to share), she will make us a salad (for some reason there is always tuna on the salad!) and a potato frittata (delicious) for the first 10 people who want it. We all contribute some wine and have a great time. There is Napoli (not his name) from Italy, Sophia from Portugal, 2 young men from Latvia, Olivia from Melbourne and 3 women from Holland. Bernard and I explored some of the short steep streets and intrigued by some of the doors so I took some pictures. We were concerned about the bunks but they turned out to be just fine. Great sleep!
Buen Camino!
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: bernie tinevez <kofthew@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, May 5, 2013 at 8:48 PM
Subject:
To: bernie tinevez <kofthew@gmail.com>
From: bernie tinevez <kofthew@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, May 5, 2013 at 8:48 PM
Subject:
To: bernie tinevez <kofthew@gmail.com>
Day 3 Estella - Villamayor de Montjardin
Since we stayed in a hote llast night we had to find our way to the Camino. It was kind of nice - there we were at 7 a.m. standing the street looking at the map and "discussing" where we should go when a gentleman came over and gave us directions. People are so kind. We were soon reassured we were on the right track by the number of pilgrims "climbing" (again) in the same direction. There was a great path through a forest of oak and pine and soon were at the Hotel Iraqui where we had cafe con leche (love it) and a muffin. The TV news was on and we saw there were wildfires in California. Seems so distant. On through Azquela then to our stop of today Villamayor de Montjardin - 10.6kms. It doesn´t open until noon but we are invited to leave our packs, pull up a chair and relax, which we do. The picture is of the ceiling in the room where we are going to spend the night. We walked part way up to the ruins and enjoyed the fabulous view of the countryside. We also visited the 12th century church of St. Andrew (1 Euro to pay for the lights) where there was a beautiful silve crucifix that was over 1000 years old!! We met Sandy and Wayne from S. Carolina who shared some of the 3 lbs of beef jerky they brought from home. He was trying to reduce the weight in him backpack. This Auberge is calle Hogar Montjardin and our host is named Jacob. There are lots of young people and some not so young and there is laundry drying everywhere as the sun has finally come out. We had a great communal dinner - best meal since Madrid because I didn´t have to cook it! Then a half hour meditation (if you wanted) which was a great way to settle down to sleep.
Buen Camino!!
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: bernie tinevez <kofthew@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, May 5, 2013 at 8:45 PM
Subject:
To: bernie tinevez <kofthew@gmail.com>
From: bernie tinevez <kofthew@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, May 5, 2013 at 8:45 PM
Subject:
To: bernie tinevez <kofthew@gmail.com>
Friday, 3 May 2013
Day 2 Uterga to Estella
Experienced the joys of a hostel - loud snoring all night but that´s part of the package and fringe benefits. We both felt great this morning, lots of energy. Our first village, Puente la Reina, is known for the bridge built by the Queen in the Middle Ages so the pilgrims would not be at the mercy of the barge operators who would steal from the pilgrims. We have read about some of the history of the camino and it is so awesome to actually be here! Next it is up to Maneru then down, then way up to Cirauqui with its very steep narrow streets. We encountered a group pushing and pulling a young handicapped man on a recumbent bicycle. Every time they overcame an obstacle they would all cheer. The mud and rocks became things to celebrate. We had planned to spend the night in Lorco - 20 kms from our start - but the two Auberges were full. So on to the next village 4 or 5 kms. away. We arrived at Villatuerta and there was one bed left. We thought the young Irish woman behind us would take it but she left it for another woman who was really struggling. Such is the spirit of the Camino. The Irish woman, Edwina, caught the bus with us to Estella - 4kms further down the road. In Estella a passenger got on the bus and informed us all that all of the beds were taken here as well. Our next option was a hotel, so the kind bus driver told us where to find a hotel that usually took in pilgrims and would not be too expensive. Another "angel". Edwina had walked almost 40 kms that day (our 25kms didn´t seem so far after all), and could hardly make it to the hotel. She used Bernard´s walking sticks and we gave her a water bottle and once she was registered we sent her up to her room. An hour or so later she called us to thank us for our help and wanted to meet for dinner, which we readily agreed to. Over dinner she explained that she had promised her elderly grandmother that she would do some of the camino but that day would be end of her camino for now. Buen Camino Edwina.
Wednesday, 1 May 2013
Day 1 Pamplona to Uterga
To recap our travels to this point, everything went smoothly, the flights were all good. Angel number 1 appeared to tell us which bus to take at the airport in Madrid and where to get off. Information gave us directions to our hotel 2 blocks away but we took the long way and 4 blocks later we spied it way down the street! The room was great, very sleek and modern and resonable. We would recommend it to anyone, the AC Hotel Atocha. Next morning we walked 2 blocks to the train station and bought our tickets for Pamplona (the orange juice or zuma de naranja, at the station was the best fresh orange juice ever!). Angel number 2 appeared on the bus from the train station in Pamplona. She told us exactly where to go (a 10 minute walk) to find the Albergue Jesus y Maria. I was sure we were going in the wrong direction as the streets in this very old part of Pamplona were narrow and empty (siesta time) but it wasn´t long before we spied some mud splattered pilgrims heading the same way we were so we followed them since they seemed to know where they were going. We were allowed to stay at the Albergue since we were starting our pilgrimage the next day. We paid 7 Euros each for a bed. There were 3 bunk beds in each cubicle (6 people). There was also a kitchen where we made our dinner, unisex showers-washrooms and coin laundry. Angel number 3 appeared in the bunk next to ours to tell us that the next day, May 1, was a holiday and nothing would be open so we should shop for our lunch and snacks that night. He even told us where to find the market. When I asked him his name he said Forrest Gump, but we called him Angelo (male angel). Next day we started walking at 7 a.m. The Way was very well marked, the weather is cool and overcast but very comfortable. There are a lot of pilgrims on the road today, some fast, some slow like us. Before long we are climbing and climbing on a very rough and muddy track up to Alto Perdon with the huge wind turbines we have been able to see all morning. The steel scupture of the pilgrims is also there to greet us. Next is a very steep, rocky descent to the village of Uterga. Day one of the camino has us taking it easy on ouselves. At 1 p.m. we decide to stop in Uterga, 17 kms from Pamplona. We have seen people from all over the world, Sweden, France, Australia, Ireland, Great Britain, Holland, Norway, Spain and even Canada. They all wish us "buen Camino".
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